Now that my fellow authors have had a chance to let off some horological steam with their picks, it’s my turn to put together a hypothetical watch collection for $24,000. Sound fun? Let’s get started! My collection consists of three timepieces. I affectionately refer to them as the “Conversation Starters.” I deliberately opted for watches that are outside the mainstream, but which inevitably attract attention. Our little thought experiment today is meant to be fun – and these watches are just that.
A Freak On the Wrist: Ulysse Nardin Freak X
My choice for watch number one is the Ulysse Nardin Freak X. It’s the little sister of the original Freak, with which Ulysse Nardin caused a sensation in 2001. The special feature of both watches are the calibers designed by master watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin. These don’t have hands in the conventional sense. The movement itself provides these. The skeletonized movement bridges have a stylized hand shape and rotate around the face of the watch. The escapement, escapement wheel, and balance wheel are also constantly rotating. Technically speaking, this is a carousel, a close relative of the tourbillon. This fascinating movement can be seen in all its splendor, with Ulysse Nardin brilliantly foregoing a dial. The movement is cleanly framed by a ring of applied hour indices. These are – just like the “hands” – infused with a generous portion of luminous material. This makes the watch easy to read even in the dark. And despite its 43-mm diameter, the Freak X is surprisingly easy to wear. This is probably also due to the fact that the Freak X is manufactured out of either titanium or carbon, making it remarkably light. On Chrono24 you can find the Freak X in titanium in good condition starting at around $16,000 – perfect for the central pillar of my small collection.
MB&F 101: M.A.D.1 Red
There are few watches that deserve the label “Conversation Starter” more than the creations by MB&F (Maximilian Büsser and Friends). These timepieces, referred to as “Machines,” are created in collaboration with independent watchmakers who are given free rein for their creativity. The result is true works of art, some of which are simply out of this world. The problem: our budget of $24,000 only lets us dream of an MB&F. The solution? Well, how about the M.A.D.1 Red – the MB&F watch for beginners. Maximilian Büsser launched the M.A.D.Editions in 2020 as an affordable alternative to the MB&F Machines. To keep costs down, Büsser sources standard movements for these watches, which are then modified according to the company’s own requirements. In the case of the M.A.D.1 Red, a heavily modified Miyota 821A is used. One of the main reasons for this choice is the fact that the winding rotor of this movement rotates significantly faster and more easily than an ETA or Sellita caliber, for example. However, the conventional rotor has been replaced by a three-sided “Battle Ax” rotor filled with luminous material. The highlight: the movement is installed with its underside facing upwards. Void of a dial, the cheerfully spinning rotor in this watch can be seen under the sapphire glass. The whole thing is somewhat reminiscent of a fidget spinner and is a fascinating sight, especially in the dark. The time is displayed on two superimposed cylinders on the flanks of the watch case. With a height of just under 19 mm, the M.A.D.1 Red isn’t exactly going to slip comfortably under your shirt cuff. But it doesn’t have to. A watch like this wants to be seen. Understatement is not what it’s about at all. The price on Chrono24 is almost a bargain at around $3,900.
A Nice Ring to It: Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto
The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto rounds off my $24,000 watch collection. Long considered an insider tip for high-quality yet affordable watches, the Bel Canto catapulted Christopher Ward into the limelight overnight. This watch even won the “Petite Aiguille” category at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Genève (GPHG) in 2023. But what makes the Bel Canto so extraordinary? For starters, the clock has a striking mechanism – more precisely, a Sonnerie au Passage, which means it strikes every full hour. This watch is furthermore a real eye-catcher. The mechanism of the striking mechanism is visible on the front. It forms a frame for the skeletonized subdial at 12 o’clock which displays the time. This very wearable titanium watch has a diameter of 41 mm and a height of 13.2 mm. And last but not least, there’s the price: on Chrono24 you can find pre-owned pieces in excellent condition for around $3,700 – unique for a watch with a striking mechanism complication.
Summary
And there we have it: my $24,000 watch collection. I hope I’ve been able to give you a little nudge to not just always look for the “usual suspects.”
