Grand Seiko is a brand that has cemented its place in watchmaking history by pushing the boundaries of technology. One of the brand’s biggest achievements is developing the Spring Drive technology, which is now renowned for its incredible accuracy and is a key reason many watch fans choose Grand Seiko.
Grand Seiko introduced Spring Drive technology in 1997 and presented it at the Baselworld Fair in 1998. One year later, Grand Seiko released the first watches with manual-winding Spring Drive movements, followed by the first automatic Spring Drive models in 2004. The brand is celebrating the 20th anniversary of the first automatic Spring Drive caliber 9R65 with several new limited editions in 2024.
What is Spring Drive Technology?
Before diving into the five limited-edition models, let’s first review the Spring Drive technology. It combines the craftsmanship of mechanical watchmaking with the accuracy of quartz technology. Like a traditional mechanical caliber, Spring Drive movements are powered by a mainspring. The mainspring is wound by turning the crown manually or rotating the rotor. However, a Spring Drive caliber uses the so-called Tri-synchro regulator to control the speed at which the mainspring unwinds.
This special regulator consists of an integrated circuit (IC), an electronic brake, and a quartz crystal. These elements regulate the unwinding of the mainspring using three types of energy. The first is the mechanical power from the mainspring. The second is the electrical power from the IC/quartz oscillator. Lastly, electromagnetic power is used to apply a brake via a rotor. It’s an ingenious combination of elements: the IC detects if the mainspring is unwinding too quickly and slows down the movement without friction using electromagnetic power. This technique allows for more efficient energy use, resulting in greater accuracy and an extended power reserve.
To celebrate the first automatic Spring Drive caliber’s 20th anniversary, Grand Seiko has released five limited-edition models this year. Let’s check them out!
Grand Seiko SBGA497
Grand Seiko started the celebrations in February with the release of the SBGA497. This new model uses the same case design as the SBGA001, the first model powered by the 9R65, which was released in 2004. The classic Grand Seiko case design is paired with a lightweight titanium case and bracelet. The watch features a stunning pink gradation dial, “representing the sunrise over the snow-covered Hotaka mountain range in Nagano Prefecture”, where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches are made. If you are not familiar with Grand Seiko’s dials, they often draw inspiration from Japanese nature and traditions, as you can see from this first example.
Inside the 41mm titanium case, Grand Seiko uses the 9R65 caliber, visible through the sapphire display case back. The movement offers an accuracy of ±1 second per day (±15 seconds per month) and a power reserve of 72 hours. The Grand Seiko SBGA497 is limited to 1,500 pieces and went on sale for $6,300. Prices on Chrono24 start at around $5,300.
Grand Seiko SBGE305
Along with the SBGA497, Grand Seiko also introduced the SBGE305. This modern Sports Collection GMT features a 40.5mm stainless steel case paired with a stainless steel bracelet. The case is combined with a black ceramic bezel that displays the 24-hour GMT scale in white. The watch has a dark red dial inspired by “a vivid sunrise illuminating the rugged Hotaka mountain range in summer.”
As this is a GMT model, it features a fourth hand in addition to the hour, minute, and second hands. The GMT hand, with its arrow-shaped tip, indicates the home time on the bezel, while the other three hands display local time. When traveling through different time zones, the local time can be adjusted by moving the hour hand in one-hour increments. This is made possible by the Spring Drive caliber 9R66, essentially the 9R65 with an additional 24-hour GMT hand. The movement offers the same ±1 second per day accuracy and 72-hour power reserve. Grand Seiko produced 1,300 pieces of this limited edition, which went on sale for $6,200. Here, too, you may be lucky and get your hands on a model from a price of around $4,700 on Chrono24.
Grand Seiko SBGC275
The Grand Seiko SBGC275 is the brand’s 20th-anniversary model, unveiled in April of this year. The watch is part of the Sports Collection and combines a chronograph with a GMT function. It features a 44.5mm lightweight titanium case and bracelet. The watch also has a black ceramic bezel similar to the one used for the previous model, which displays the 24-hour GMT scale.
The vibrant red dial is again inspired by the Shinshu sunrise reflecting off the Hotaka mountain range. The dial also features sub-dials for the small seconds display and chronograph totalizers for hours and minutes, as well as a power reserve indicator at the bottom. The watch is powered by the 9R96 caliber, which is even more accurate than the previous models, with an accuracy of ±0.5 seconds per day (±10 seconds per month), and offers a 72-hour power reserve. Grand Seiko produced 700 pieces of this model, which went on sale for $13,400.
Grand Seiko SBGY035
The fourth limited edition was announced in late August. The classically styled SBGY035 is part of the Elegance Collection and features a 38.5mm stainless steel case. The case is paired with a textured dark red dial, “inspired by the morning glow of the Hotaka mountain range and the gradation of autumn leaves in the early dawn light”.
The clean red dial is adorned with sharp hour and minute hands, and a rose gold seconds hand that complements the rose gold logo. The watch is powered by the manual-winding Spring Drive caliber 9R31, offering the same ±1 second per day accuracy and 72-hour power reserve as its automatic counterpart. This limited edition is set to be released in November, with 700 pieces priced at $8,500.
Grand Seiko SBGA499
The fifth and final watch is the Grand Seiko SBGA499, also part of the Elegance Collection. The combination of the 40.2mm stainless steel case and bracelet gives this watch a more contemporary look than the previous model. The watch also features a red dial inspired by the Hotaka mountain range and “autumn leaves illuminated by the golden morning sun”. The sunburst dial has a rose gold power reserve indicator, creating a vibrant display that’s more striking than the subtler dial of the SBGY035.
Powered by the 9R65 caliber, visible through the sapphire case back, the SBGA499 offers an accuracy of ±1 second per day and a 72-hour power reserve. Grand Seiko produced 1,300 pieces of this model, which was released in September for $5,800.
Overall, these five watches showcase the variety of design and functionality that Grand Seiko offers with its Spring Drive models. My favorite is the SBGA497, which features a stunning pink dial and a design reminiscent of the first automatic Spring Drive model. It’s a beautiful watch that serves as a daily reminder of one of the most significant technological advancements in modern watchmaking.
